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Clutch Centre – Here to help
Here’s some useful information to help you understand some potential clutch problems and possible diagnosis. If your clutch is showing any of these symptoms, then it’s time to pay us a visit so we can help.
In case you are in any doubt that your clutch is actually faulty, we will complete a free clutch check while-you-wait, and if you think that you are having problems with your clutch just bring your vehicle to our workshop and Rob or Aaron will be able to assist you.
Through our expert knowledge & diagnosis we will be able to tell if your clutch is faulty and we will be able to give you a free estimate/no obligation quote to get your vehicle back on the road.
Clutches are supposed to slip while the clutch is being engaged so the vehicle doesn’t jerk or lurch forward when starting out.
The clutch also needs to slip when the gears are changed to ease the shock on the transmission and drivetrain. But once the clutch pedal is fully released, the clutch should hold firm and provide a solid coupling between the engine and transmission.
If it doesn’t, something is wrong and needs to be investigated.
Slipping will be most noticeable when the engine is under load, as when lugging at low speed in a high gear, when driving up a hill, when accelerating to pass another vehicle or when towing a trailer.
Clutch chatter is often caused by oil or grease on the clutch linings, but it can also be caused by burned or glazed linings, a warped or grooved flywheel, missing flywheel dowel pins, a worn pilot bearing/bushing, a worn bearing retainer, worn or damaged clutch disc or input shaft splines, bent or broken drive straps on the clutch, a bent or distorted clutch disc, a loose clutch cover or even missing flywheel dowel pins.
External causes of clutch chatter include loose or broken engine or transmission mounts, misalignment of the chassis and drivetrain components, worn or damaged U-joints or CV joints, a loose transmission crossmember, a worn or bent release fork, or loose rear left spring bushings or spring U-bolt nuts.
Hard Clutch Pedal
All clutches require a certain amount of pedal effort, but if the pedal feels unusually stiff or hard, check for sticking or binding in the pedal linkage, cable, cross shaft, fork or pivot ball.
A blockage or worn seals in the hydraulic system can also increase pedal effort.
Clutch won't Release
If the clutch does not release completely when the clutch pedal is fully depressed, the disc will continue to turn the input shaft. This may prevent the driver from shifting the transmission from neutral into gear, cause grinding when the gears are changed, or cause the engine to stall when coming to a stop.
A clutch that won’t release may have a misadjusted linkage, a broken or stretched release cable, a leaky or defective slave or master clutch cylinder, air in the hydraulic line or cylinders, corroded, damaged or improperly lubricated input shaft splines, a worn pilot bearing/bushing, a worn bearing retainer, bent of worn release fork or pivot ball, bent clutch drive straps, bent or distorted clutch disc, improperly installed clutch disc or clutch, or mismatched clutch components.
Internal Clutch Noise
• Worn or defective input shaft bearing.
• Defective or misaligned release bearing.
• Worn, misaligned or improperly lubricated pilot bearing/bushing.
• Worn, bent or improperly lubricated release fork.
• Worn input shaft.
• Improper disc installation.
• Damaged bearing retainer.
• Loose flywheel bolts.